To become a surfer is to step into an entirely new world.

A world populated by pirate-like surfing personalities, comeback stories, eco-warriors and of course… mind-melting waves.

Scrolling through Instagram or watching the odd surf movie can give you a glimpse into this world.

To truly understand and appreciate it though, you need to delve deeper.

Reading is one of life’s simple pleasures. And despite the fact our attention spans are more suited to scrolling than settling down with a good book, there’s no denying the power of a well-written surf book to transport us into that other world.

We asked the Rise Up familia, which includes both guests and staff, for their favourite surf books.

Here are the top 16 recommendations for surf books that’ll entertain, educate and inspire you to keep turning the pages.

culture and travel surf books

Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Barbarian Days by William Finnegan is a Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir that takes readers on a fascinating journey through the life of a dedicated surfer.

Finnegan masterfully intertwines his love for surfing with themes of self-discovery, adventure and cultural exploration.

From his youth riding waves along the California coast to his quests for perfect breaks in far-flung destinations, this book offers profound insight into the soul of surfing and the compelling stories and characters it produces.

The Sexy Ugly Beautifuls by John McCarthy

Looking for a book to inspire a sense of wanderlust?

This rock ‘n’ roll collection of stories from South African surfer John McCarthy is sure to do just that.

From apartheid-era Durban to the far-flung beaches of Australia, McCarthy’s tales in The Sexy Ugly Beautifuls will make you want to pack up your board and hit the road in search of surf.

Bulk chuckles and nuanced insights into the surf culture of yesteryear abound.

In Search of Captain Zero by Allan Weisbecker

Allan Weisbecker might just be the original surfing vanlifer.

Along with his beloved dog and trusty surfboard, he embarks on a journey from New York through San Diego and down the Pacific coast of Central America in search of an old friend who disappeared years ago.

In Search of Captain Zero isn’t just about surfing. It’s also about friendship, adventure and finding oneself through the chaos and beauty of the road less traveled.

It also features famous Central American surf destinations such as Mexico, El Salvador and Nicaragua.

West of Jesus by Steven Kotler

Steven Kotler takes readers on a journey through the world of extreme surfing, with its adrenaline-fueled big wave hunters, ego-driven personalities and tales of heroism and defeat.

West of Jesus dives into the dark side of surf culture and examines the forces that drive some to seek danger and risk everything in pursuit of the ultimate ride.

It’s not exactly suitable for kids, but it’s one of the best surf books for adults who want to explore a more raw and unfiltered side of surfing.

Breath by Tim Winton

Now a hit movie, Breath by Tim Winton is a coming-of-age story set in the wild coastal landscape of Western Australia.

Its themes of risk-taking, mateship and maturity through surfing will resonate with anyone who’s ever felt the pull of the ocean.

If you plan on heading to the Land Down Under or you just want to know what growing up as a surfer in Australia is like, this is one book you’ll want tucked away in your bag.

Surf Like a Girl by Krista Comer

This collection of interviews and photos explores the role of women in surf culture and the challenges they face in a male-dominated sport.

From paddling out for their first wave to competing on the world stage, these stories offer insight into the strength and resilience of female surfers around the globe – both local legends, pros and pioneers.

Surf Like A Girl is a must-read for any woman seeking proof that when it comes to surfing, the waves are for everyone.

BIOGRAPHICAL SURFing Books

Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater

From Baywatch to Waimea Bay and beyond, Kelly Slater is arguably the world’s greatest surfer.

With an unprecedented 11 world titles to his name, he’s revolutionized the sport of surfing and inspired countless individuals around the globe. What goes on behind the scenes of this legend’s life is just as fascinating as his incredible achievements on the waves.

A must-read for every surfer or anyone interested in the sport, Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater is a riveting account of his journey to becoming the most decorated surfer in history.

Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton

The surfing life is full of adrenaline, danger and camaraderie. But for Bethany Hamilton, a young surfer from Hawaii, it took on a whole new meaning after she lost her arm in a shark attack at the age of 13.

Her inspiring story of resilience, determination and passion for surfing has captured hearts worldwide and is now a major motion picture.

The movie is great, but her story is so inspiring that it deserves to be told in full. Get your copy of Soul Surfer today.

Becoming Westerly by Jamie Brisick

Method actor, aggressive surfer and trailblazer, Peter Drouyn’s transformation into Westerly Windina is a fascinating and inspiring story of self-discovery and acceptance.

In the world of surfing, where traditional masculinity has long been glorified, Peter’s journey in Becoming Westerly is an important and groundbreaking one.

It challenges societal norms and highlights the struggles and triumphs of someone navigating their gender identity.

The book, along with the accompanying documentary film, sheds light on the complex and ever-evolving nature of human identity.

Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez

Gerry Lopez is a surfer who needs no introduction. His feats at Pipeline and zen-like approach to surfing have made him a legend in the surf world.

In this book, Lopez shares his experiences and insights from over four decades of chasing waves around the world.

His wisdom and reflections on life as a surfer are sure to inspire you to look at surfing in a whole new light.

If the second best thing about surfing is talking about it, the third best thing is reading about it in Surf Is Where You Find It.

Occy: The Rise and Fall of Mark Occhilupo by Tim Baker

This book is to surfing what Rocky is to boxing… except the story contained within its pages is all fact, zero fiction.

Tim Baker’s biography of the enigmatic but beloved Mark Occhilupo delves into the highs and lows of the former world champion’s career.

From his meteoric rise to fame at a young age, to his struggles with mental health and addiction, Occy’s story is one that resonates deeply with many surfers.

Above all else, Occy: The Rise and Fall of Mark Occhilupo celebrates his incredible talent and passion for surfing, reminding you of why he’ll always be considered one of the greatest surfers of all time.

Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard

Yvon Chouinard, the founder of outdoor clothing company Patagonia, shares his story of building a successful business while staying true to his values and love for nature.

This book is not just for surfers, but for anyone looking for inspiration and insight on how to live a purpose-driven life. It’s a reminder that success doesn’t have to come at the expense of the environment or personal values.

We love this book for the everyday surf wisdom, but Let My People Go Surfing is equally as beneficial for the modern business owner.

Coffee table surf books

The Surf Atlas by Luke Gartside

Looking for the ultimate surf trip? This book is a visual feast for anyone dreaming of the perfect wave.

Surf Atlas celebrates the world’s most intriguing and iconic surf spots, from remote beaches in Iceland to tropical paradises in Indonesia.

With stunning photography and detailed descriptions of each location, this book is happy reading for any surf enthusiast or traveler.

High Tide by Chris Burkard

The mesmerizing photos and captivating storytelling in this book transports you to some of the wildest and most beautiful places on Earth, where surfing is both a challenge and an escape.

A cold-water surf destination specialist, Chris Burkard uses High Tide to capture the rugged beauty of places like Norway and Iceland in a way that will make you want to book your next surf trip immediately (although we suggest swapping the Faroe Islands for Costa Rica or somewhere warmer).

Keep this book on the coffee table as a source of inspiration and motivation for your next adventure.

Surf Tribe by Stephan Vanfleteren

Want to lose yourself in the stunning world of international surf personalities?

Look no further than Surf Tribe by renowned photographer Stephan Vanfleteren.

This captivating photo book showcases portraits of some of the most iconic figures in surfing, along with lesser-known individuals who share a deep admiration and respect for the ocean.

Through his lens, Vanfleteren reveals the true essence of surf culture – one that goes beyond competition and sport.

His stunning black and white portraits in Surf Tribe capture the soul of each individual surfer in an intimate and powerful way.

The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw

Matt Warshaw’s obsession with surfing led him to create The History of Surfing – a comprehensive and visually stunning book that explores the evolution of surfing over the past 800 years.

Through meticulous research and interviews with key figures in the industry, Warshaw’s first published book takes readers on a journey through time, from the origins of surfing in Hawaii to its global popularity today.

It’s good stuff if you want to deepen your knowledge of particular surfers, surfboard types and the evolution of surfing culture.

The History of Surfing also contains some incredibly dry wit and humor that’s much appreciated by the Rise Up familia.

Honourable mentions and how to surf books

Taj Burrow’s Book of Hot Surfing by Taj Burrow
Surfing Illustrated: A Visual Guide to Wave Riding by John Robison
Surf Shack by Nina Freudenberger
Surf Better: Complete Surfing Program by Dave Rearwin
The Surf Girl Guide To Surf Fitness by Lee Stanbury Louise Searle
She Surf by Lauren Hill
Caught Inside by Daniel Duane
Tracks Magazine
Surfer’s Journal

Wrapping up

Looking for a book that grabs you by the collar and keeps you riveted?

Hopefully these suggestions have inspired you to pick up a new read and dive deeper into the world of surfing.

Then, when you’re ready to surf for real, you can slip down to Central America or the Caribbean for a session (or two or three) with us!